The Rogue Estate

Text encapsulated culinary elitism.

Pat, Brent & Jack of The Rogue Estate

As you may have figured out by now, The Rogue Estate is a collective of friends who are passionate about a wide variety of topics. We come from a broad spectrum of backgrounds and careers, all sharing the common goal of bringing better food to your table.

A dedicated Bio page is forthcoming, so for now I’ll describe the Estate Founders in brief: Jack is our resident fine dining & Sushi expert, a 4 star chef for many years. Brent is a wine and cigar 0fficianto,  having spent as much time in wine cellars as any licensed sommelier. Sara, the cupcake goddess and expert on fine chocolates. Pat, our redneck outdoorsman and hard working sous-chef. Myself, I carry a passion for the spices of the world and I do a pretty righteous BBQ.

Amongst the many things that I feel really sets The Rogue Estate apart from the massive crop of food blogs on the tubes right now is that we are all friends and coworkers in real life. We get together weekly to share recipes, cook, dine, explore unusual beverages, teach each other new skills, plan events, edit articles and brainstorm. Our weekly get-together sets up a great rhythm and really helps to reinforce the ideal that we write only from personal experience – every review, every guide, every recipe – lived and tried by one or more of us.

You’ll always get the real deal at The Rogue Estate, and never any regurgitated referral content just to fill space and inflate page view stats. As we all continue to seek out the authentic cuisines and genuine experiences in this amazing world we live in, we’ll continue to share them on these pages and we hope you’ll continue to enjoy them and share your own experiences in the comments.

Building on those thoughts, at one of our January meetings, Jack marched into Pat’s kitchen with his arms full of groceries and his head full of steam. Tonight’s dinner, he declared, is PASTA PUTTANESCA!

The story behind this dish varies from telling to telling, but the common theme is that it was originally from the Italian whore houses. If customers didn’t come in for the women, they were sure to come in for the food. Another variation tells that the ingredients in this bold sauce were as easy to get one’s hands on as the women themselves. Whatever the truth of it’s origins, one thing I can tell you about Pasta Puttanesca is that it is an astoundingly powerful, pungent and delicious meal.

Jack led us on the first preparation during this particular chef’s night and I recreated his methods in my kitchen with minor alterations a few days later. In both instances, the results were rich, bold, complex and mind bogglingly delicious. Don’t let the ingredients list intimidate you: every element of this dish works together and the final product is more than the sum of it’s parts.

Pasta Puttanesca – The Software:

• 6 Tbls Olive Oil
• 1 large onion, diced
• 1 bottle of medium bodied red wine
• 3 lbs of tomatoes, diced
  

  Basil Chiffonade

• 1 head of garlic, cloves peeled and thinly sliced
• 2 oz. Anchovies, thinly sliced
• 1 Tbls Aleppo pepper flakes
• 2 tsp freshly ground Black Pepper
• 1/2 cup capers
• 1 cup ripe Kalamata olives, sliced
• 2 Red Bell Peppers, diced
• 1 lb chicken breast, coarsely cubed
• 12 large Basil leaves, chiffonade
• 1lb cooked seafood medley (chopped mix of whatever creatures you prefer, we went with mix of octopus, clam, squid and scallops.)
• 1 lb dried penne or farfalle pasta
• Juice of 1/2 lemon (freshly squeezed or skip it – the bottled stuff does no justice.)
• 1/2 lb Freshly shaved Parmesan cheese (throw that pre-grated sawdust in the green tube away.)

Pasta Puttanesca – The Process:

If you have room, prep your vegetables and protein (poultry last, of course) and set aside for use as needed.

Grab a large fry pan and heat 3 tbls of olive oil, toss in the onion for a sweat.

In a large sauce pan, simmer the entire bottle of wine down to 1/3 it’s original volume.

When the onion is near transparency, toss in the garlic and the anchovies and simmer for 5 minutes, tossing occasionally. Transfer the onion, garlic and anchovies to the wine reduction. Add the tomatoes and bell peppers to the reduction, reserving 1/3 of each. Bring to a boil and then reduce back to a simmer, adding the Black pepper and Aleppo pepper. Simmer this mixture, stirring occasionally for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, add 2 more Tbls of olive oil to the fry pan, bring up the heat to medium and brown the chicken to your preference. When it’s done to your liking, stir it into the main sauce main with the wine/tomato etc. mixture. Add the Kalamata olives, Seafood Medley, reserved tomato and reserved bell pepper, stirring to combine. Simmer for 5 more minutes then remove from heat, cover and let rest until it’s time to serve.

Fire up a large pot of water to a boil and pour in your pasta, cooking til done – al dente is king around The Rogue Estate. Drain and shock with cold water to stop the cooking process then drain again and toss with 1 Tbls of olive oil. Portion into serving bowls.

Stir the lemon juice and Basil into the sauce and ladle onto the pasta portions, garnish with any smaller left over whole Basil leaves and a generous portion of the shaved Parmesan, serve immediately.

As with all our recipes, if you prepare a dish with our instructions we’d love to know about it. Love it or hate it, tell us all about it in the comments.

Enjoy!

-///

Forschner chefs knife

Not many things are more upsetting to me than being asked to cook in some one else’s kitchen, only to discover that the only knives they own are either so dull I’d be better off using a bowling ball to cut things, or they’re all of the “never needs sharpening” variety.

First of all, The most frequent cause of accidental cuts is a dull knife. Picture trying to cut a tomato, pepper, or anything that has a round surface and thick smooth skin with a dull knife – the blade slips off and you spend the rest of the afternoon in a clinic getting stitches. If you’re gonna have real knives, go get yourself a medium or fine grit sharpening stone and a honing rod (and no, a honing rod does not sharpen the knife, rather it just “hones” the edge, once it’s dull it’s dull, get a stone too). Both are relatively inexpensive. And PLEASE do not keep them knocking around in a “knife drawer”… there’s no better way to take the edge off of a good knife than to leave it rattling around in a drawer with other metal objects. Get yourself a magnetic strip, a knife block, or rack to hold them safely away from each other and from damage.

Secondly, the only knives in your kitchen that need to be serrated are a bread knife and steak knives for your table setting. Those incredible things that you bought for convenience are nearly useless in my eyes; they’re better at tearing through foods than actually cutting them.

If you’re looking to upgrade or re-stock your collection, here are a few tips to help you along:

Most companies that make the knives professionals use also make cheaper models most people can afford, and they’re a hell of a lot better than any

Henkels chefs knife

“bargain knife set” you might see on TV or in a store. The top 2 companies most pros go with are Henkels or Wusthof (also known as Trident). I personally use mostly Henkels. However, they don’t hold an edge as well as a Wusthof, so they require frequent maintenance, but they are heavier and made of harder metal. Wusthof is the most common brand seen in a chefs knife kit for these reasons, but I still like, no love, my Henkels. Another common brand in restaurant kitchens is Forschner. Much less expensive than the other two, so they might be a better choice for your daily home uses. You really do get what you pay for here, though, so realize that lower price tag means lower quality as well.

Selecting which knives to purchase can be a daunting task when faced with the near endless multitude of blade shapes and sizes. The truth is, all you really need as a home cook is one good chefs knife. Maybe a paring knife and a slicer as well, and perhaps a boning knife, but as long as you have one good chefs knife it’s all you’re really gonna need. It’s the backbone and workhorse of any good collection. The width of the blade makes it good for chopping, the length makes it good for slicing, the curve makes it good for fine work like small dice, and the weight makes it a decent cleaver. The tapered point is also good for detailed work.

If you do a lot of roasts or other large hunks o meat or fish you might also want to invest in a slicer. The longer blade means one swipe, clean slices without having to saw through things leaving jagged edges, and the thinner blade will give you less friction meaning it will pass through much easier.

Paring knives are good for small detail and decorative cuts, and boning knives are just that, made for de-boning meats and fish. They are also good for smaller vegetables. However, these knives are probably not gonna be used very often by the home cook, so it’s really up to you whether or not to spend the money on them.

Wusthof chefs knife

Check out the links I’ve provided to read more information if you’re unsure which brand to go with. If you have any questions about this or other topics I’ve posted please feel free to ask in the comments.

http://www.wusthof.com/desktopdefault.aspx

http://www.j-a-henckels.com/en-US

http://www.forschnerknives.net/

Jack

I’ve been on a big shortbread kick lately.  I think it’s mostly because they are the buttery little chameleons of the cookie world.  I can be digging around on the spice shelf of our pantry and get about two dozen ideas for accessorizing a basic shortbread recipe, and then the challenge simply becomes choosing which one I want to make first.

Over the New Year’s Holiday, I stumbled across a recipe for a Parmesan shortbread with rosemary.  Savory and herbaceous, it sounded like a lovely alternative for all of the sweet I usually generate in the kitchen.  I decided to swap out the Parmesan for three-month aged Manchego cheese, which is a sheep milk cheese from Spain.  I pressed a whole blanched almond into the top of each shortbread round, though in retrospect, I wish I had had some Marcona almonds on hand instead.  The finished product was light and buttery, and deliciously herbaceous, with a nice little touch of texture from the almond.  I took it a step further and spread some quince paste on them as I ate them and it was quite a delicious homage to a country I have yet to visit.  The shortbread were accompanied by a glass of Juan Gil Jumilla, some jumbo olives that I stuffed with the aforementioned Marcona almonds, and an assortment of Spanish goat and sheep milk cheeses for an evening of tapas with friends.

Ingredients:

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 cup confectioners’ sugar
• 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup grated Manchego cheese (or any Spanish cheese of your choosing)
• 1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1 teaspoon water
• blanched almonds (or Marcona almonds)
• quince paste (optional, for serving)

Put the flour, sugar, rosemary, salt and Manchego into a bowl and whisk until combined.  Add the butter and cut it into the flour mixture until a soft dough forms.  You will likely need to add the water to get it to hold together.

There are a couple of different ways to prepare your shortbread for baking.  The first method is to put the dough on a sheet of plastic wrap, forming it into a loose log.  Roll the dough log in the plastic wrap and twist the ends securely, then chill it in the refrigerator until it is firm – about one hour.  After it has set, cut the log into 1/4″ to 1/2″ disks, placing them on a cookie sheet.  When I prepared the dough, I simply rolled tablespoon-sized balls of it, setting them on a cookie sheet.  I placed one blanched (or Marcona) almond on the top of each ball, then pressed them flat with the floured bottom of a glass.  When they were all prepared, I set the cookie sheets in the refrigerator to let them set for one hour.

Bake the cookies in a 375 degree oven for about 12 to 14 minutes.  The edges will just begin to turn golden brown.  Cool the shortbread on the pan for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire racks to cool completely.  Spread with quince paste before eating.

The cookies will keep in an airtight container for about a week.

~Sara

R. Samurai

Welcome to my introductory post on preparing all things wild. First, let me introduce myself. My name is Pat, aka Redneck Samurai. I have been an avid grocery shopper of the great state of Michigan’s woods, fields, lakes and streams for most of my life. I have enjoyed many of Michigan’s specialties and have developed a bit of knowledge through trial and error, that I’d like to share with you. I’ll do my best to guide you through the basics of preparing wild game. In future posts I’ll share my favorite recipes and techniques for preparing your quarry.

Here in Michigan we have wrapped up another beautiful hunting season and many of us have a few pounds of something scrumptious in the freezer. Unfortunately, some of my fellow outdoor shoppers don’t know how to prepare their game and the flavors of the wild get lost. Either in the old “hide the gamey flavor” recipes from mom or burnt to a crisp because “ya gotta cook it good, it’s wild after all.”

There are three things that you need to keep in mind with wild game. First, you can hack any of your favorite recipes that call for a store bought kin of your game. Second, don’t be afraid to experiment, find an interesting recipe and run with it. Third, try to find recipes that will complement your catch and not over power or cover its natural excellence.

Here are a few things I’ve learned over the years that have helped me decide what to prepare. Most wild game will have significantly less fat than their “farm” raised cousins. This is due in part to the fact they actually get to live a real life. Oh yeah, and they aren’t shot up with hormones seven times a month to ensure massive muscle growth. This is an important piece of information when preparing wild game. In most cases you’ll have to add some kind of fat/grease or oil when hacking it into a recipe designed for farm raised fare. A good example of this is wild turkey. Your store bought Butterball has more then enough fat, water and “additives” throughout the bird to keep it moist for its full six hour bake. With a wild bird you’ll need to supplement by either packing bacon, bacon grease or duck fat under the skin (any excuse to use bacon). Or you can also rub it down with bacon grease, duck fat, butter, olive oil or peanut oil and keep it covered longer. You’ll also want to procure a good thermometer. You don’t have the room for error that you have in store bought birds. Once that bird hits temperature pull it.

The flavors of your harvest can differ greatly based on where your quarry lived and what it had been feeding on. For example, venison harvested from an area that is mainly farm land or orchards has most likely fed on corn, soybeans, apples or what ever the farmer has planted that year. They will have a lighter, sweeter flavor then one that comes from a heavily wooded area. Venison harvested from a forested location have fed on acorns, wild fruits, berries, grass and vegetation resulting in a stronger nutty, earthy flavor. In both cases this is typically what most mush mouths would refer to as the “gamey” flavor. Venison with a more robust flavor is well suited for recipes that call for lamb, pork or goat and marry well with more intense spice and seasoning palettes. They work well in Middle Eastern, Central American, Mexican or any rich flavorful cuisine that can complement its unique essence. They also pair well with aromatic cheeses and herbs. Venison from farmlands work well with lighter styles of cooking. Stir fries, grilling with light glazes or reductions and (American style) shish kabobs with fresh vegetables. They tend to work well in place of beef, veal or pork. Remember don’t hide that delicious flavor, enhance it with your spices and seasonings.

One of the most common misconceptions with wild game especially venison is that you have to cook the holy shit out of it. That is absolutely true if you want to gnaw on a wedge of flavorless leather. As I’ve mentioned before wild game is lean, which means it cooks fast and if its over cooked it turns tough, dry and flavorless. As with any meat it should be brought to an appropriate temperature. However, that does not mean you need to turn it to coal. Venison should be prepared no more then medium. I prefer medium rare. If I’m grilling or broiling half inch to one inch think portions of venison it should only see heat for three to four minutes a side. That will result in a nice brown outside with a gorgeous juicy pink inside. As with all meat but especially wild game, let it rest. I know its damn near impossible to not jab a fork in that beast and grab a bite right when it comes off the grill but…… Wait 15 minutes and let all that meat cool a bit and let the juice stay in the meat not on the plate.

Until next time,

DO NOT FEAR FLAVOR!

A superior coffee brew

My first visit to Chazzano Coffee Roasters in Ferndale, MI took an unexpected turn. I arrived, not knowing quite what to expect from this new offering in town and I discovered what can only be described as a love story.

19 years ago, owner and Master Roaster Frank Lanzkron-Tamarazo began roasting coffee for his own enjoyment in his garage. The first cup ignited his passion and love of coffee roasting – the art, science and magic of the craft and all the nuances and processes therein.

Much like Chazzano’s neighbors B Nektar Meadery one half mile to the south, Frank’s home-grown passion has grown into a full fledged business, serving amazing cups of coffee, educating and sharing his love with regulars and new customers alike.

I walked in and asked Frank and his Barristas Claire and Elena to start at the top and take me on a coffee tour, which they obliged. Each cup, drawn from a french press was unique to it’s origins, exquisite and satisfying.

Other preparations include an espresso machine and a method called siphoning, shown in the photo above. Like adding water to Scotch, siphoning can create an entirely different flavor experience from that of a french press from the same type bean. The siphon is also a lot of fun to watch if you’re a process nerd like me.

Of the many things you will refreshingly not find at Chazzano are drip coffee makers, decanters, or flavored syrups. The coffee is made only upon order and specifically for you. Your cup of coffee will always be literally as fresh as it can possibly can be. The dedication to the art is astounding. Also missing – walls of gear, or any of the other annoyances commonly found in st*rbucks type places. Chazzano is blissfully fac to face personal, classy and comfortable.

All of this set up brings us to the star of the article: The coffee.

My first cup, a Papua New Guinea Purosa, is one of Chazzano’s most popular – and for good reason. A wonderfully complex coffee with a wonderful nose of cinnamon and chocolate notes and a full bodied mouth feel that would make any morning feel like a lazy Sunday.

My tour continued with a Citrusy Nicaraguan Maragogype, an amazing Ethiopian Harrar with a floral taste and a nose of wood and tobacco, a Sumatra Manheling that immediately reminded me of a well stocked humidor and a delightfully smooth mouth feel and full bodied flavor, A Guatemalan Comel with vanilla and caramel notes and a naturally decaffeinated Sumatra with a nose like fine dark chocolate and a taste as smooth as silk, I would never guess it to be decaf, and neither will you.

There are other varieties to sample and Frank is always searching for amazing new experiences to share with his customers. Each of the coffees I enjoyed on this visit could probably warrant their own posts. And perhaps as I learn more of the vocabulary and enjoy more of the fruits born of Frank’s expertise, I’ll undertake that task.

If you are a coffee lover or would like to become one, head on out to 1737 E. Nine Mile Road in Ferndale, MI and pay Frank and his staff a visit, or place an order online. You will not be disappointed – and you may just fall in love.

-///