The French Hottie

Popular U.S. opinion is that French wine has a certain “mystique”. Unfortunately no one really knows what that word means anymore, so it has become an alias for “overpriced” and “not immediately enjoyable”. The people who believe this are the same Neanderthals who slept through French class in college, and never noticed the sweet, sexy girl in the second row who somehow had a better accent than anyone else. I miss that girl. I think she’s in the bottle in front of me.

This is another capable Rhône designed for bistro food, and a long, fantastic conversation about poetry, movies, politics, and the color of her eyes (there I go again…)

2007 Le Clos Du Caillou Côtes du Rhône (About $20)

Learn more about the winery (French language only): http://www.closducaillou.com/site/spip.php
Learn more about the bottle in front of me (French language only): http://www.closducaillou.com/site/spip.php?page=fichevins&id_article=109

Love to see what's under THAT label...

SEE: A deep, majestic, and clear ruby red. Lightens to an even medium red at the rim.
SWIRL: It coats the glass beautifully with even, slow legs.
SMELL: A floral perfume over a bed of solid musky leather. There beef blood in there, and lots of dark berries. As the alcohol blows off, there’s some intriguing barnyard and bacon aromas.
SIP: Wonderful black cherry and cassis are upfront, but it’s not long before the muted spice notes emerge, with orange peel and cloves.
SAVOR: There’s a long evolving finish that starts dusty and hot, but resolves to bitter chocolate.  Nice solid structure and balance to this.

Final impression: A lusty wine to savor slowly and enjoy its finer aromas. This one will age well for several more years.

Pair with: Classic French bistro fare. Boeuf Bourguignon, rich cheeses.

White for Tapas

It’s no longer news that Michigan (like much of the eastern U.S.) has had an early spring, with record-setting temps that make it feel like Summer. So at the risk of jinxing us all into colder temps, I thought I’d cover one of my favorite pairings with an affordable bottle. I LOVE Spanish-style tapas, and most of them are savory gems that are free of red meat. Try this, respectfully chilled, with the tapas you love.

A White for the Red drinker.

ZOLO 2010 Torrontes (About $12)

Learn more about the winery: http://www.vinodelsol.com/thewineries/zolo.html
Learn more about the bottle in front of me: http://www.vinodelsol.com/pos/zolo/TechSheet_ZoloTorrontes.pdf

SEE: An attractive dusty light gold.
SWIRL: A clear even coat on the glass with slow legs.
SMELL: Initial aromas of white peach & flowers and some faint smoke. Some minerality follows, stone fruits and tart apple.
SIP: A definite warmth and tartness, with baked pear and and orange rind/pith following. Lime and sea salt hint at pairings.
SAVOR: As it opens, this becomes a complex, warm, and golden bath over the food it is served with. It seems to embrace salt.

Final impression: This will not contrast to or confound light Spanish classics–a great everyday wine for seafood or vegetable tapas.

Pair with: Complex savory but not spicy dishes, saffron, shrimp, dry Spanish chorizo, sardines and young sheep cheeses. Avoid sugars and carmel flavors.

HOY HOY HOY!

I promised over a month ago to complete the comparison between a worthwhile west-coast Syrah, and the Aussie inspiration that I believe most Californians are chasing, and may someday perfect.

G’Day mate. The Barossa Valley lays claim to the home of classic Australian Shiraz, but I also believe the non-corporate wineries there are functioning as great laboratories for the grape, perfecting the tannin and fruit balance, and considering aging potential. I enjoyed this inexpensive blend only slightly more than the entry level 100% Shiraz from the same maker.

St. Hallett 2008 Shiraz-Cabernet, a refined bomb.

2008 St. Hallett Shiraz-Cabernet (About $13)

Learn more about the winery: http://www.sthallett.com.au/ (Flash-heavy site)
Learn more about the bottle in front of me: The winery seems to have moved on from this blend and currently offers no info. Cellartracker has 6 reviews: http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=791020

SEE: Deep, rich medium ruby throughout, with great clarity
SWIRL: Thin even slow coating of the glass, with stubborn slow legs
SMELL: Jammy black raspberry and overripe strawberry upfront, with a background of light tobacco and dry forest.
SIP: Rich, bright sweet fruit resolving to a mild warm spiciness. A full body and a pleasing burst of acidity.
SAVOR: A faint touch of chocolate covered cherry on a relatively short but pleasant finish

Final impression: A brilliant wine for the price (QPR = Quality for Price Ratio). Characteristic of the Aussie “fruit bomb” but showing some real depth and complexity, even at the low end of St. Hallett’s portfolio.

Pair with: Simple, powerful, familiar favorites. Burgers, takeout lasagna, bratwurst.

Que Syrah, Syrah…

Lost Canyon Syrah had such promise.

I recall several years ago when Syrah came to the attention of Cab drinkers as both an exotic being heavily marketed by Australia (AKA Shiraz) and as a funky Californian upstart (Syrah). It’s always been a capable blending grape, good for adding some ripe dark fruit and syrupy mouthfeel to its sometimes more austere vinifera cousins. On its own, it yields a relatively simple but potentially very deep crowd-pleaser.

The battle continues, Cali VS Aussie, MegaCorp VS rebel producer, to this day. I have few preconceived notions about the grape, or the wine it gives up. In my experience it’s good with meat, sweet, and smoke. BBQ AKA the barbie.

But I was sad to hear that we lost Lost Canyon (in its original incarnation) as a contender.

2007 Lost Canyon Russian River Syrah (About $15)

Learn more about the winery: http://www.princeofpinot.com/winery/205/
Learn more about the bottle in front of me: http://buyingguide.winemag.com/catalog/lost-canyon-2007-trenton-station-vineyard-syrah-russian-river-valley

SEE: Dark, deep brilliant red through and through
SWIRL: A nice heavy coating of the glass, with quick, striking legs
SMELL: Rich blackberry and black cherry fruit, leaves, leather, vanilla, plums, and even smoked bacon, heat from the alcohol.
SIP: Tart and tannic, black fruits, and vanilla from fairly new oak
SAVOR: Chewy/meaty but not as syrupy as more common new world versions

Final impression: All The classic brambly fruit notes, a bit tight, rough and young. Yet it’s as good as any Syrah I’ve had at the price and a nicer alternative to cheap Aussie Shiraz. Next week I plan to test a comparable Barossa Valley Shiraz to compare.

Pair with: BBQ with sauce, or any meats with grilled onions.

The stiff upper lip.

Imagine an Italian immigrant living in New York during prohibition, buying grapes from California to make wine in his basement. From these passionate beginnings we finally arrive at a flagship French-inspired wine favored by the British early in the 20th century.

Kind of make you dizzy, doesn’t it? But the wine in question stands on its own, albeit supported by a sinfully large marketing budget. It’s a strong wine, but reserved – an even blend between old and new world style. It’s a serious step above plonk, relatively risk-free, and wisely priced for the nervous buyer (plus, wrapped in a gold wire net!). That being said, the Coppola Claret will never give you that funky, unique love-it-or-hate-it “Wow” factor, but it’s a great doorway into better class of wine for a lot of curious drinkers.

2009 Coppola Claret (About $17)

Learn more about the winery: http://www.franciscoppolawinery.com/
Learn more about the bottle in front of me: http://ffcp.s3.amazonaws.com/fcw/wine/diamond/claret/09_DiaClaret_FS.pdf

SEE: Rich deep ruby, fading to a slight rose at the rim.
SWIRL: A medium body coats the glass with prominent legs.
SMELL: A tight nose at first. As the alcohol burns off, aromas of wood, leather, plums and a hint of salted licorice. There are familiar Cabernet scents but in a more reserved style than California usually delivers.
SIP: Quiet blackberry and cassis slowly open to reveal faint woody spices. Coriander, allspice, clove and orange peel in careful amounts.
SAVOR: A moderately long finish adds bitter vanilla, and faint tobacco smoke. As the wine opens caramel, apple skins, and even Concord grapes emerge.

Final impression: This Claret take a long time before you can even think about unbuttoning its blouse. Patience and attention pays with a balanced and very nuanced flavor. Dependable.

Pair with: Nice with the Sunday roast, stews, and most British versions of French winter classics.

A nice mix.

Almost everyone I know approaches new music the same way: we get on kicks where we find a new band, or a new sound that fascinates us. We learn as much as we can and sample any and all releases that are related. I tend to approach wines the same way. When I’m not matching a particular dish, I tend to explore wines from a single region, varietal or style until I get bored enough to seek out the next thing.

Earlier this Fall I was on a Rhône valley kick.

This region in the southeast of France (just north of Provence) is known for the diversity of its grape varieties which are blended in a bunch of different ways to make Côtes du Rhône, Côtes Rôtie, Crozes Hermitage, Gigondas, Châteauneuf du Pape and a whole lot more. Most Côtes du Rhône makers mix Grenache with Syrah and Carignan or Mourvèdre to yield easy drinking, food-friendly wines with lots of herbal and spice notes. They are not built to age the way Bordeauxs and Burgundies are, but most will improve with several years in the bottle.

2008 Domaine Sainte-Anne Côtes du Rhône Villages (About $16)

Learn more about the winery: http://www.chateauneuf.dk/gervais/en/geren4.htm
Learn more about the bottle in front of me: Link not available, but George over at Gang of pour has liked this one in the past. http://blogs.gangofpour.com/2007-domaine-sainte-anne

SEE: A beautiful bright medium red, turning slightly rosy at the edge.
SWIRL: The wine coats the glass nicely, with tiny, evenly spaced legs.
SMELL: Right out of the bottle, this is tight, with a nose of red berries and citrus/grapefruit. It opens to reveal holiday spices, dried fruits, cedar, and a forest full of woody herbs.
SIP: Tannic, tart and warm on the tongue, with cranberry and a touch of bitter orange.
SAVOR: With time in the glass and a suitable meal, the flavors deepen and soften, ending in a moderately long cocoa finish.

Final impression: A nice, balanced southern Rhône, with the complex spice flavors and aromas typical of the region. Classic old world French (built for food).

Pair with: Quite nice with grilled lamb loin chops and roasted herbed potatoes. It might possibly pair better with a Christmas goose, with roasted garlic or braised leeks.

The M word.

Seven years after it’s release, the most notorious quote from “Sideways” still rings in most Americans’ ears: (Miles Raymond) “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any fucking Merlot!”

The bottle in front of me is not Miles’ Merlot. It’s Massive. Macho. Murderous.

Aside from the few decent Bordeaux’s I’ve splurged on, my Merlot experience is limited mostly to high volume, low-flavor Californian juice of little note. I typically associate strawberry aromas and flavors with these young bottles, rushed to market. At $10-15 a pop, there has been little encouragement to search deeper. M. Cosentino has given me that encouragement. I found their 2005 Napa County Merlot lurking behind the more current 2006 at a local shop. I got wine-jacked.

2005 M. Cosentino Napa County Merlot (About $16)

Learn more about the winery: http://www.cosentinowinery.com/index/page/static/subpage/cosentino_winery
Learn more about the bottle in front of me: http://www.cosentinowinery.com/common/downloads/cosentino/THEwines_factsheet_MER_2006.pdf

SEE: A very deep, rich ruby color, with nice clarity. Consistent color through to the rim, showing little signs of age.
SWIRL: The wine clings stubbornly to the sides of the glass, resulting in extremely slow legs.
SMELL: Very ripe (almost overripe) aromas of black stone fruits, cherry and plum. Some deep floral and herb scents – mild lilies and sweet annie. Wood shows through with faint tar, cedar, and vanilla.
SIP: Powerful, dense, chewy fruit on the tongue, with cassis, black plum, and black cherry upfront. An initial sweet attack is followed with a wash of tartness. The concentration and plum flavors combine to give an impression of prunes (in a good way).
SAVOR: The fruit resolves to a mildly sweet tobacco finish, which stretches into a lingering smoky espresso flavor.

Final impression: This is defiantly Californian, new world, and BIG. A great value for the price, and a wine to be be savored over a few hours.

Pair with: Man food. Grilled hanger steak, lamb burgers, and strong, funky, salty cheeses.

P.S. Mafioso Maduros for the bonus.

Drink your backyard.

The most important mantra any food obsessive has heard repeatedly over the last decade or so is to eat local, and drink local. In the world of wine, this mantra is largely laughable for 99% of the world’s population. I count myself in the 99%, along with large swaths of Asia, Africa, anybody in inland South America, most of Eastern Europe, and all but about six U.S. states.

But I’m really close to being able to drink local, and it’s getting better all the time.

For this, my first regular posting of tasting notes, I chose the most local wine I could find, from my neighborhood store, in its current release (2010) which was a better year than most in recent memory.

2010 Pelee Island Pinot Noir (About $13)

Learn more about the winery: http://www.peleeisland.com/index.php
Learn more about the bottle in front of me: https://secure1.prositehosting.net/winestore/winestore.php?id=18

SEE: Clear medium red, with a light pinkish rim, indicative of youth.
SWIRL: Bright color, with weak legs on the glass.
SMELL: Very bright lively aromas of cherries, with a slight fragrance of strawberry and cedar. Clearly Pinot Noir, but reserved.
SIP: Very dry, tart cranberry that washes thinly over the tongue, nice acidity with a bit of initial bitterness that softens over time. Tannic, old world style, honest, and designed for food.
SAVOR: Tannins last throughout the finish, with hints of graphite and leaves.

Final impression: Would buy again, but there may be a few more satisfying Pinot’s in this price range, mostly from larger producers in California.

Pair with: fresh air, light cheeses, vegetable dishes, and mildly flavored game such as rabbit or quail.

P.S. If you live anywhere near southeastern Michigan, you owe it to yourself to spend a day visiting Pelee Island. Drive to Leamington (Canada’s tomato country) in the late Summer or early Fall, take the ferry, and spend a day biking and picnicking on a very relaxed, beautiful island.

Those people are missing out.

I’m hoping you’ve tried at least once to focus and TASTE.  See, swirl, smell (twice), sip, swish, spit and savor.  That’s one classic technique for wine tasting, and if you take notes in-between those steps, you’ll learn.  A lot.

It may feel pretentious and all-too elevated at first, but that’s just our common prejudice about wine. You’ll get over it.  When we TASTE we’re exercising our tongue and the connection it has to the space in our brains that’s all about wine, flavor, and memory.

One really cool exercise that most of us don’t get to do is a vertical tasting.  A vertical tasting is simply tasting the same wine from the same wine-maker over multiple years.  For the rich (or connected) this can mean tasting wines over many years, decades, or even a century.  But you and I may not be so rich or connected.

You don't actually stack the glasses for a vertical tasting.

The point of this workout is to show you that even the same wine, from the same grapes, from the same vineyards, can vary perceptibly from one year to the next.

The key variable is the weather, which is no small variable.  Rainfall, temperature, and sunlight affect grape sugar levels and yield massively.  Wine-makers adjust with the time and the way they pick fruit, how they press, and how they use their craft to optimize what nature gives them.  It’s all about adaptation and improvisation. And THAT is a real workout.  Ask any winemaker. Good wine takes sweat.  Drinking it should involve at least a respectful amount of effort and focus.

The payoff is that you learn a lot more about the wine, the region, the weather, and your own personal preferences.

I recently managed to find a French Rosé at a shop with two consecutive years in stock.  Rosé is an interesting subject for a vertical tasting because Rosés are not made for consistency and age.  They are made for Summer refreshment and immediate enjoyment.  Nevertheless, I expected subtle differences anyway, and I took notes:

Domaine Faverot 2009 and 2010 Rosé (AOC Luberon)

"Mom always said you were her Faverot!"

The color: Both a beautiful bright light pink, but the 2009 showed a slight tinge of amber at the rim, typical of age.

The aroma: Floral, sweet strawberry aromas dominate. The 2009 exhibits a more sugary/bubble gum scent, while the 2010 smells tighter with a light anise note.

The taste: Both wines had the characteristic bright tart acidity that makes Rosé so refreshing, and great with food. Citrus, melon and berry flavors were up-front in both. I found the 2009 to have a medium body but a fuller, longer finish. The 2010 seemed to have a fuller body, but was slightly more tannic, almost “puckery”. My fellow taster found the tannins and acid to be off-putting, but I found the balance of the 2010 to be more satisfying than the 2009 which seemed to have one-note throughout.

Take some time to work your own palate, focus and take notes. If you find the chance to try a vertical tasting, grab it. You’ll have a healthier appreciation in no time.

Not really a wine-guy.

Wine RULES, like San Dimas High School Football RULES.

That Google-able movie reference out of the way, part of the problem with wine pairing is that “rules” can be intimidating.  In America “rules” are meant to be broken.  And stomped on.  And given poorly-considered tattoos at 3am. We don’t DO rules. Calling them “traditions” doesn’t help, either.

We need a new word for guidelines on picking wines to go with food.  So I’m going to go with “wins”, as in FTW (it means “For The Win”, Nana).

What follows are a few widely held views on what makes for a good wine pairing, translated into my own corse language.  Presumably, volumes have been written on each of these concepts, but I’m hoping this serves as wine pairing crib notes for you.

Decisions, decisions.

Wine Win #1: Drink what you like.

Ah, the mantra of the un-experienced wine drinker, and the ultra-experienced wine drinker alike.  The un-experienced wine drinker has never had that AHA! FTW! moment that a great Alsatian white paired with a raw-milk Swiss mountain cheese provides.  They’ve never paid enough for a Bordeaux to see what it does to a simple beef stew.  Fizzy wine is for New Years’ Eve, not oysters (who would eat a raw oyster anyway?)

The ultra-experienced wine drinker is the opposite.  She’s drunk her way through the Rhine, the Rhone, Piedmont, South Africa, and knows that her favorite boutique Sonoma Chard goes with almost any meal that she really likes.  Good for her.

Drink what you like is a win for the experienced, but shuts off a world of discoveries for the newly curious. That’s a wine fail.  One of the better wine bars in my area has two pairing recommendations listed on their menu with every dish.  The first is “classic”, and the second is “experimental”.  I adore this approach because it caters to the novice and the adventurer alike.  If we get the expert Chard lover out of her rut, that’s a WIN.

Wine Win #2: White with Fish and Red with Meat

This old chestnut is under attack from almost all sides lately, but for the novice it is generally a safe place to start.  I can’t think of any whites that would hold up to a good burger or steak.  Similarly, there aren’t any reds that come to mind that could avoid obliterating a pan-seared trout or battered cod.  However, as the cuisine becomes more complicated, nagging little exceptions arise.  Curry-rubbed pork loin?  Viognier.   Salmon or air-cured charcuterie?  Dry Rosé.  What about duck or goose?  Well, it’s fatty, so go with acidic, then pair the color of the wine based on how it’s prepared or seasoned, and which part of the animal is on the plate.  Confit and dark meat go perfectly with Chinon Cabernet Franc, but roasted pheasant breast pairs nicely with a Pinot Gris.  Actually damn near everything pairs nicely with Pinot Gris.  WIN!

Wine Win #3: Opposites Attract

Simple, but effective.  One of the great qualities of a wine (or indeed beer) is to refresh, or clear the palate between tastes of food.  Acidic wines work wonderfully with fatty foods.  Sweeter, low-alcohol wines can help tame spicy meals, and tannic, dry wines can help when a dish has a lot of caramelized sugars.  There are a lot of pitfalls and land-mines here, so experiment, take notes, and learn from them.  One of my favorite winning contrasts is a crisp cool Alsatian white with molten Swiss cheese fondue, or Raclette.

Wine Win #4: Location, Location, Location

This is the crowd-sourced rule that relies on generations of foodies and wine geeks. Before blogging, before Parker, before printing presses could distribute tasting notes, people who ate and drank local (because there were no other options) learned how to tweak the grapes they grew, the animals they raised, and the recipes they designed to work in great harmony.  You can’t comfortably dismiss centuries of human culinary experience passed down to us.  So if the dish is typically Tuscan, drink Tuscan.  Argentinian? Go Argentinian.  This works for anywhere, even areas where wines are not made.  Hunan dish?  As much as the industry will push a Dry Riesling or Gewurztraminer, you may win harder with a local black tea.

Wine Win #5: The Art and the Frame

I recently saw an old acquaintance that I hadn’t seen in fifteen years, and learned that he had spent all that time in wine distribution.  Over the course of an all too brief conversation he asked me about my interests and preferences, gave me a couple great tips on wines to explore, and also offered another great wine rule.  This rule may be original, or an ancient selling tool, but I loved the poetry of it, and its relevance to pairing.  Here’s a misquote, but it captures the idea.

“A dish and a wine is like a painting and a frame.  If the painting is rich and complex, you’ll want a simple clean frame that does not pull your attention away from it. And vice-versa. If the dish is the complex painting, choose a simple wine to frame it.  If the wine is extraordinary, make sure the dish is a simple frame that does not distract from it.”

Where's your focus?

It’s a great rule to win by, but it requires a more sophisticated understanding of food and wine flavors to be able to put it into practice.  Don’t match a particularly complex Italian wine with an intricate and bold puttanesca sauce.  Don’t be afraid to season your cutlet with only salt and pepper, if you’ve got a dynamite Burgundy that you opened an hour ago.  Art and frame FTW!

So that’s a little about what I know. What are your recent food and wine pairing wins?

The featured wines of the evening

Due to extenuating circumstances I ended up planning most of the meal. It was a huge learning experience on my part, as I’d never really started with the beverages as the impetus for creating a menu. This did not intimidate me, however, I saw it more as a challenge, and challenges are always a learning experience.

At our meetings it’s usually a given that once a menu is set Ian will bring wine pairings and I’ll have beer pairings in tow, but since the focus of the evening was the food/wine interactions, I thought it best to leave it alone and approach the barley derived offerings from a different angle. I used them as intermezzos, rather than to pair with the dishes on the table. My concept was to use them to bridge the gap between courses, and create a flow of interconnected flavors with each dish and it’s wine accompaniment.

Little cups of seawater, naturally self contained, needing little to no alteration...

The first two beers of the evening.

The next offering may have been the star of the meal. An Asian style soup, leaning heavily on Thai influences, that included pork loin, madras curry, a carefully selected small variety of vegetables, and coconut milk. Garnished with fresh cilantro, Bosc pear battons, crushed toasted cashews, and thinly sliced scallions, it met the wine chosen (Brys Estate Gewurztraminer) and it was love at first bite. The wine is a semi-sweet, so I used lime zest in the recipe, rather than juice, since the wine had it’s own balance already. So I knew adding the lime juice, and all the acid that comes with it, to the soup could possibly over power the mild acidity of the wine. Lemongrass would be another option, and equally well suited, but I didn’t see any when I hit the market. The sweetness of the pears and the brightness of the cilantro made the semi-sweet wine dance on the tongue, while the curry played well with the nose and mild dryness. The toasted cashews did their fair share, too, in bringing out the minute hint of oak in the wine that might otherwise have gotten lost in the melee. Without ever tasting the wine ahead of time, I’m happy to say I nailed this one! Everything about the pairing came together better than I could have hoped for! (Recipe for this soup here)

The beer chosen to flow us into the next course was again a brew from Rogue. The Morimoto Black Obi Soba ale. Since I’ve already reviewed this one, I’ll spare you the details, just click that link for tasting notes. It did it’s job in tying the curry and pork into the next course. The mild notes of roasted nuts and caramel did well to tie the curry in the soup to the glaze on the roasted leg of lamb, the maple on the squash, and the cranberries in the risotto. (Review of this beer here)

This was the main event. Mustard/Plum glazed roasted leg of Lamb, risotto of barley with Michigan cheddar and cranberries, and maple roasted spaghetti squash. This plate was built around the wine 2 Lads Cabernet Franc. While I would suggest using a smaller cut of lamb than a whole leg since not every bite gave the caramelized plum glaze that was the key to the pairing for the lamb and the wine, it still, by no means, sucked! Ian discovered this the hard way, as he went straight for the interior of the leg. Missing out on the glaze, he commented that the lamb wasn’t matching the wine very well. Though, he recanted after scooping up some of the glaze in the bottom of the roasting pan, lamenting his decision to go solely for the less done cuts. Can’t really say that I blame him though. Duck would be a great pairing as well, if done in a similar style. All that aside, the plate and the wine went together quite nicely. Not as well as the other courses, but by no means a failure. The fruit and berry in the nose and pallet of the wine mingled well with the plums, and cranberries on the plate, while the mustard and maple interacted with the mild tannins in the wine.

After the Lamb, and before dessert.

Our resident baker, sadly, could not attend this time out, so dessert was a last minute purchase of apple-caramel crumb cake. “Anathema!” you might be screaming right now, especially if you’ve been following this site AT ALL! Even the best laid plans can fail, however… While not ideal, it did manage to play with the 45 North Peach Cremant well enough (though the spongy texture of the cake was very ‘Twinkiesque’). 45 North’s Peach Cremant is a light sparkler with white peach juice, so it paired with the apple and caramel sufficiently. Though, by the end of the meal we were almost on overload so the simplicity was probably a good thing.

To be honest, I was really hoping to completely miss the mark at least once. Insane, say you? Why would I possibly want to disappoint THIS crowd?! It would have taught me what NOT to do in food/wine pairing, which can sometimes be a more valuable lesson than getting it right.

It is my hope that this post gives you a better understanding of the intricacies of food and beverage pairings. Many factors need to be carefully considered to find that perfect match, if such a thing exists. Oak, acid, specific fruits, specific nut, specific berry, and even “dust” flavors are all terms that have been used in wine tasting notes, so the foods paired with them need to ebb and flow with the beverages. Even cooking technique needs to be considered. Coffee and peach? Might sound like an odd pair, but not if you grill the peaches! As we did this summer on our pizza night with a grilled peach turnover and vanilla ice cream paired with a coffee stout. The coffee amped up the vanilla and grilled flavors to a “punch in the mouth” level and the sweetness of the stout put the caramelized peaches on a pedestal.

So here’s to learning experiences! I hope you have a few of your own in the kitchen.

Jack…

(Click here for the full photo gallery of this meal)

Chateau Chantal

Rogue Chipotle Ale

Brys Estate

Morimoto Black Obi Soba Ale

2 Lads Cab Franc

Dogfish Head Namaste

45 North Peach Cremant

Jack handled most of the planning with Ian’s guidance on the wine profiles. We ate very well. Recipes coming soon.
-///

“Rogue Estate Chef’s Night – 11/29/2010″

From R.E.: Lamb Enchanted Evening, posted by Bob Perye on 12/01/2010 (53 items)

Generated by Facebook Photo Fetcher

And thus, a young* man’s desires turn from pale golden to ruby and garnet.  In other words, it’s red wine time.  What follows are brief tasting notes on a few Michigan reds, from the predictably sweet/dull to a few drier standouts.

What my exploration into Michigan wines has taught me thus far is that Michigan growers and vintners are a beautifully mixed bag of brilliant, tired, old-school, creative hot-shot and huckster–but the work ethic shows through.  I say that because it can be difficult climate for grapes, especially red varietals.  But it IS workable.  The Loire region of France and the Willamette Valley in Oregon have proven it.  What’s been missing is hotter summers, and plain old fashioned experience.  And Michigan is slowly gaining more of both.

I still haven’t found a wine able to go the Spinal Tap “1 more, up to 11″, but we’re getting closer.

The Sacrificial Lamb

Unfortunately, truly old school.

Peninsula Cellars Old School Red NV

Old Mission Peninsula.  At 10% Alcohol this should NOT be labeled a “DRY Red Table Wine” (about $15)

This is an entry level wine from a another old Michigan farm that specialized in apples and cherries until diversifying into grapes in 1991.  Like other local wineries, their tasting room is a renovated 19th century schoolhouse, and that features in their marketing as well.  While I’m certain that they have better offerings, this bottle did not impress.

Properly a semi-dry or sweeter, this is a tart cherry-flavored sweet red, which I have grown less and less fond of.  Very fruit-forward with little to no oak.   I just don’t understand the sweet red wine that is so common in Michigan.  Disturbingly, I’ve seen more and more sweet reds marketed locally from other states, even California.  I think it’s a fad for the lazy winemaker, tapping into a niche that many haven’t served in decades, although I can’t vouch for Peninsula Cellars’ sales.  I’ll be happy when tastes change–good riddance.

4/11, and that’s being generous.

Franc From Around the Way

As I wrote earlier this year, I’m a fan of the acidic Cab Franc’s from Chinon, in the Loire region of France.  Generally great with game birds, these cool climate grapes are doing very well in Michigan.  I managed to score a few examples to do a local version of the Franc VS Franc battle.  While they’re not ready to challenge the better Cali and French versions, all of these are recommended, especially with locally harvested birds.

The Baseline

Will the real Shady Lane please stand up?

Shady Lane Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc

Leelanau Peninsula 12.5% Alcohol (about $20)

Like others purchased in the Summer heat, this one had a slightly wet cork and the quality was possibly (although not obviously) compromised due to oxidation.

The color is a brilliant medium ruby fading to a light violet rim, with noticeably slow legs clinging to the glass.

Initial aromas of bacon, heavy alcohol, rounded out with plums and a faint orange-rind citrus note.

On the tongue the heat remained underneath tastes of cranberry, mild cocoa, and red apple skins.  A dark  medium-bodied wine with some vegetal notes.  Characteristically for Cab Franc this was big on the acid and tannin.

Rating 6/11 but likely a 7 or 8 when allowed to open and paired with duck.

The Challenger

I was excited to find a Franc from the southwest side of the state, seeing as how the northern AVA’s are getting more attention.  Fenn Valley got it’s start in the early 70s and takes an admirably scientific approach to their vines, and also focuses on wines to compliment food.

37 years young.

Fenn Valley 2007 Cabernet Franc

Fennville AVA, on Lake Michigan’s shore; 12.5% Alcohol (about $19)

Thankfully a good cork on this one.  Interesting difference in color, Fenn Valley’s Franc is a light brick ruby through to the rim.

Somewhat thinner in the glass than the Shady Lane, but with good slow legs.

Aromas of leather, bright berries, red apple, and even sweet corn, making it a nice BBQ option.

Tastes of tart cherries, cranberry, and bittersweet chocolate.

This is a bright wine, medium bodied, with purer fruit than Shady Lane, still heavy acid and tannin.

Rated 7/11 but definitely better with-slow smoked or braised turkey thighs.

Vogue

Ciccone Vinyard and Winery brings the Italian passion to Leelanau.  They plant a wide variety of grapes, and work hard to bring an old world style to the area.  I would love to see their production increase slowly and distribution improve quickly.  Oh, and they have a mega-celebrity daughter who graces some of the labels.

A material wine.

Ciccone Vinyard and Winery 2007 Cabernet Franc

Leelanau Peninsula 12.1% Alcohol (about $15)

Good to see a tight artificial cork.  This Franc was a light garnet/ruby in the glass with good viscosity.  A very characteristic chocolate-covered cherry aroma, coupled with oaken tobacco leaves–a wonderful expression of Autumn.  A faint touch of meat or leather and ripe olives followed.

On the tongue there was mouth-watering acidity and solid tannins.  The base of the flavor was currants and cocoa with smoke.  This wine exhibits a great dry style, equal in every way to French Chinon’s.  8/11.  A solid, competitive wine and my best find so far.

The Oddball Outsider

Another Fenn Valley offering, this was initially unfamiliar, but an interesting bold red worth tasting and trying again.  The Capriccio has won Best of Show at the Michigan State Fair, and is a customer favorite.

Fenn Valley  Capriccio Dry Red Wine Lake MI Shore

12.5% Alcohol (about $14)

Through the glass this presents a bright ruby red with slight pink rim, and looks young.  The nose is of lively cherries, rock salt, and some oak.  Rather hot as well.

At first it is reminiscent of a Beaujolais, but slightly more substantial. There is cranberry tartness backed with black fruits (plums, and darker berries).  On the finish I tasted local blueberries and herbs.

Rated  7/11 and again, just begging for roasted pheasant or duck.

So, as the weather turns, and the Rogue Estate crew kicks up the food focus, I may move away from Pure Michigan wines, and explore the wider world.  But I’m far from done digging in my own backyard, and still plan a trip north before the leaves drop.

*Any comments related to my age will be moderated into the void.

Anyway, this roundup of Michigan wines covers some Michigan whites that are definitely worth seeking out, but do not go to 11 (on my Spinal Tap rating scale).

Let’s get to it!

Bel Lago Auxerrois

Bel Lago 2007 Auxerrois 13% Alcohol (About $13)

Auxerrois is a crazy grape with a confusing heritage.  Related to Chardonnay, but similar to Pinot Blanc, and named similar to a Malbec in some countries, it presents a challenge to sell.  I’m happy Bel Lago decided not to slap a cutesy name on it like many other Michigan wineries do.

Similar in character and style to an Alsatian Pinot Blanc. The color is an attractive pale green straw.  A thin body, with no immediately noticable legs.

On the nose, crisp apple and lemon with light oak. There is an herbal aftertaste, with some minerality, similar to Alsatian styles.  Some toffee on the finish as it warms.

Pleasant (I like Alsatian styles), but as a fellow taster mused: ”This is like the guy in the next cubicle that you make simple talk with, but he’s not really that interesting.” Rating 6/11, but better as it opens up.

Left Foot Charley Pinot Blanc

Left Foot Charley Old Mission 2009 Pinot Blanc, 12% Alcohol

2009 was a tough, cold summer for Michigan growers, and on top of this challenge Left Foot Charley’s Pinot Blanc is made from a single acre of grapes.  Very risky, and only a competent vintner paying attention could make it work.

First, this has been one of the few Michigan wines I’ve sampled with a screw cap. I applaud the use because it means less spoilage, more convenience, and has nothing AT ALL to do with the taste of the wine.

The color is a clear golden white in the glass and is fairly viscous, similar to Oregon styles.  Aromas of spiced bread, apples, honeydew and lemon are all evident.

There is  tart acidity, similar to unripe nectarines, coupled with an oaky dryness. A medium body and a lingering Granny Smith apple on the finish.  Very much Michigan on the flavor profile.

Overall pleasant, but I would love to taste this as a sparkling wine.
Rating 6/11. I need to find the right pastry and cheese dish to match, possibly a spinach pie?

Chateau Grand Traverse Late Harvest Riesling

Chateau Grand Traverse 2008 Late Harvest Riesling.
10.5% Alcohol (about $15)
One of the more popular Michigan varietals, and one that the winery is proud of.

Color is a very light gold in glass, with characteristic viscosity, clinging to the edge heavily.

I noticed an off aroma initially, heavy with yeasts and a faint bilious odor, but this quickly resolves to honey, lemon and apple aromas, even graham cracker crust for a nice apple pie!

As you would expect, very full-bodied, with mouth watering acidity.  Neither bright nor light, but definitely a comfort wine, bordering on dessert. Rating 6/11.  Please take into account that sweet wines and Rieslings in particular are not my bag.

The Michigan wine tour continues with a few more whites, some Cab Francs and other red blends (expect me to dis the sweeter reds, which I’m trying to steer clear of).  There may even be a Fall color tour in the works with a few special purchases to share.

Incidentally, tonight I found a new source for Michigan wines locally.  Westborn Market has stepped up to provide a greater variety of Michigan products, including a few bottles I haven’t seen in my neighborhood before.  Thanks, Westborn!

A brief word on tasting notes:  there’s no perfect rating system or format for notes, but I like to include

• basic info about maker, varietal (or blend), vintage and price
• appearance, including color and viscosity
• initial aroma
• weight and flavor perceptions
• aftertaste, overall impressions, and food pairing thoughts

If you have never written down tasting notes on the wines you drink, please start!  This is probably the best way to gain a better understanding of your own preferences, and also get a solid understanding of value for price.

I use an arbitrary 11 point system to honor Spinal Tap.  Let’s go!

The Good

Peninsula Cellars is a 150-year-old farm that focused on apples and cherries until 20 years ago, when the growing wine trade drew them in.  They recently re-booted the wine operation in 2007.

Peninsula Cellars, Old Mission Peninsula AVA

Peninsula Cellars 2007 Pinot Grigio, 13% Alcohol (about $15)

Sunlight white/gold in the glass, with heavy legs.

Lemon, lime, honeysuckle on the nose, with notes of orange blossom.  A good example of the varietal, with a nice balance.  Unlike most Michigan Pinot Gris, this is a touch more Grigio than Gris.  Good news for fans of Italian styles.

Medium Body, with flavors of nectarines, apricots, and a slight smoke on the finish. Rating 7 of 11

A solid Summer white at a competitive price.

The Bad

Established in 1968 along the Lake Michigan Shore AVA, Tabor Hill has a storied tradition, including Gerald Ford’s stocking of the White House with their white wines.  To be fair, the only Tabor Hill wines available to me locally are their inexpensive table wines.  They do have better offerings, and I plan to try them.

Tabor Hill Red Arrow Red NV, Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, 12% Alcohol (About $10)

Tabor Hill Red Arrow Red

A light ruby pink in the glass with nice legs.

A light floral nose, just a bit tight, with lilies and violets characteristic of Cab Sauvignon

Tart red cherries and cranberries on the tongue, and it seems to be lightly oaked, which may contribute to the tight aroma.  Rather unremarkable.

There is a spicy but almost medicinal finish, not very pleasant.  Overall the wine seems young and unrefined.

Rating 4 of 11.

The Ugly

I hate to do this, but there are very few occasions I have purchased a wine and disposed of it.  This was one of those occasions.

Lake Effect "Wines"

Lake Effect is a newer winery based out of Muskegon, MI.  The owner is a hobbyist fond of expanding the market for wines made of other fruits and berries.  I dove in with an open mind…

Lake Effect Winery Aronia Blue Wine NV, Blueberry with Chokeberry, 10% Alcohol (about $15)

A cloudy medium violet red in the glass, syrupy.

Crude/homemade odors of beeswax and bile, with bad yeasts and rotted cherries.

On the tongue some grape jelly, as well as rye bread.

Heavy tannins, and a milky texture.  This wine was awful. I even tried to save it with toasted cheese, the miracle food for improving wine.  It still sucked. Rating 0 of 11.

Lake Effect makes a “Black and Blue” composed of Blueberries and Black Currants, which was only marginally better, rating 1 of 11.  Both of them ended back in the lake via the drain.

Next up?  Better wines from Fenn Valley, Bel Lago, and Left Foot Charley.  And maybe another Cabernet Franc taste-off.